A drive through Vlorë reveals Albania in flux: glimmering façades, ghost buildings, investment fever, and EU hopes colliding with contradictions—and I was right in the middle of it.

A windswept detour to Caorle’s old sea chapel—part pilgrimage, part construction site, part quiet encounter.

The beach still slumbers, the hotels blink slowly awake — but the beach bars are ready. A stroll between storm-washed sands and that first, perfect drink.