Captain’s Catch & Two Nights of Nothingness
Free beach camping by a pine forest near Vlorë. No neighbours, no menu, just grilled fish caught that morning by the owner and sunsets that look photoshopped. The good kind of nowhere.
Parked up right next to a pine forest that looks like it could swallow you whole if you step one metre too far off the sand. No signs. No campsite. No rules. Just me, the truck, and a fading Coca-Cola sign that says Kapiteni.
This little shack on the beach—half bar, half home, fully empty—is where I spent two nights completely alone. No other campers. No music. Just the sea, a few plastic chairs, and a guy with a face that’s clearly met a lot of sun and salt.
He didn’t have a menu. Just a question: “Fish?”
Turns out he and his brother go out at dawn and bring back whatever bites. That night: grilled belone belone of sorts. Roasted vegetables. Local beer. Paper napkins flapping in the wind like they’re trying to escape modernity.
No bill, no fuss. Just a nod when I asked “how much?” and a quick agreement on the price.
Sunsets here come with theatre—one night the sun actually sat on the hill like it had something to say before slipping off the edge. No filter needed. No words either.
Still not sure if it was legal to stay there. Still don’t care. Neither did the chef.
Out There > Motorhome Trip Spring 2025 Western Balkans and Greece > Kapiteni in Vlorë, Albania
