Free beach camping by a pine forest near Vlorë. No neighbours, no menu, just grilled fish caught that morning by the owner and sunsets that look photoshopped. The good kind of nowhere.

A quiet day through Albania’s backlands: wild horses, unfazed cows, and resting souls with a view over their earthly paradise.

A drive through Vlorë reveals Albania in flux: glimmering façades, ghost buildings, investment fever, and EU hopes colliding with contradictions—and I was right in the middle of it.